Coat construction



April 27, 1943. I J, U EFFI 2,317,373

GOAT CONSTRUCTION Filed Oct 18, 1940 INVENTOR. Jerome Giuseffi.

Patented Apr. 27, 1943 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE COAT CONSTRUCTION Jerome Giusefii, Cincinnati, Ohio, assignor to The Goodall Worsted Company, Sanford, Maine, a corporation of Maine Application October 18, 1940, Serial No. 361,762

Claims.

This invention relates to the construction of skeleton lined coats and is particularly con: cerned with improvements in the formation'of the shoulder portions of such coats.

An object of the invention i to provide a coat in which the yoke and forepart lining are' of single thickness only and unattached to the shoulder portions of the body of the coat, that is, the clot displaced, or at least disarra-nged. Inshort; the shoulder alteration heretofore has been a complicated and time-consuming matter.

The older shoulder construction likewise involves the use of adouble thickness yoke. In other words, the exposed portion of the yoke is. in turn, provided with a lining and these two parts are stitched together along the edges of the yoke forming an enclosure for the usual Another object is to provide such a construcl0 shoulder pad. The latter, however, has no proper tion in which the shoulder pad is attached to kind of support Within he ons it entparts of the yoke and forepa-rt lining, at the shoulder, the yoke, with the result that the pad sheds," and covered on its under side; beneath the yoke, that-is, fragments thereof dropdown into the closed by a piece of finish material attached to theyoke'. edge portions of the yoke forming an undesirable Another object is to provide a shoulder conand uns y enlargement along this edge; I struction of the kind indicated which eliminates addition to this, the double thickness yoke bewrinkling and undesirable bunching'of-theshoul comes wrinkled and bunched with usage and der-forming parts of the coat. after repeated cleaning and pressing operations.

Another object is to provide means of this These and other difiiculties, which are well kind which permit alterations on adjacent por- 3 known in the field, have been eliminated by th tions of the coat body, particularly the shoulder, present invention wh ch provides, briefly, for a without disturbing thelining materials and shouly e nd o pa t lining o Single ess ha der padding and adjacent parts. ing their adjacent edges-at the shoulder joined These and other objects are attain-ed by the together but unconnected to the cloth or coat means described herein and illustrated in the y h eby the latte-r is alterabl-e alon the accompanying drawing, in which: shoulder seam without disturbance to the adja- Fig. 1 is a side view of a coat embodying the cent lining parts. The shoulder pad is'attached present invention, with parts of the coat omit- 0 th nd r S Of h yoke and, in the usual tel way, to the sleeve-head, and the under side of Fig. 2 is a view of one side of a coat of this the pad, in turn, is covered by a piece of finish invention, turned inside out, and with parts of material attached to the y e and also to the the coat omitted. sleeve-head and forming, as it were, a support- Fig. 3 is an enlarged cross-sectional view on ing pocket for the otherwise exposed portion of the line 3-3 of Fig. 1. the shoulder pad under the yoke.

Fig. 4 is an enlarged cross-sectional View on In greater detail and with reference to the line 44 of Fig. 1. drawing:

Fig. 5 is a cross-sectional detail showing an Figs. 1 and 2 show a coat Ill comprising the edge portion of the positioned pad involved hereusual main features, including the sleeve I I, the in. front section I2, and the back section l3 joined The shoulder construction in coats, as they 40 alongashoulder seam l4. have ordinarily been made heretofore, involves Fig. 2 shows the coat of this invention as proa number of undesirable features and diiiiculvided with a yoke l5 and forepart lining Hi extles. These difficultie are particularly apparent tending inwardly of the coat from the seam I! when alterations on a coat, especially the shoulwhich joins the forepart lining and the inner der portion, become necessary. Under present front portion N3 of the cloth or coat body. practice, in the formation of skeleton lined coats The yoke I5 and forepart lining l6 are of single comprising yoke and forepart lining, these two thickness and joined at the shoulder along the parts have their adjacent edges stitched together line l9 but unconnected to the shoulder seam and connected with the shoulder seam of the l4, as ha heretofore been the common practice. coat body, that is, of the cloth, as the main ma- The upper portion of the yoke may be connected terial of the coat is called. Consequently, upon to the collar of the coat, as at 20, and the lower alteration of the shoulder of a coat involving edge of the yoke adjacent the sleeve, as well as the opening of the shoulder seam, the yoke and the adjacent edge portions of the forepart linforepart lining connections are likewise necesing, are connected to the sleeve-head stitching sarily opened and the shoulder pad exposed and of the coat around the armhole 2i,

yoke I5,

A shoulder pad 22, provided with the usual pad covers 23 and 24, is positioned beneath the forepart lining and the yoke, at the shoulder. The lower edge of the pad may be engaged by the sleeve connections, as at 25 (Fig. 3).

The portion of the shoulder pad beneath the in accordance with this invention, is covered by a piece 25 of finish material, which may have the same general outline as the associated portion of the shoulder pad but of somewhat larger dimensions. with the adjacent edge portion of the shoulder pad, are connected by stitching 21 to the yoke IS. The inner edge of the finish piece 25 is indicated at 28 (Fig. 4). The lower edge of the finish piece 26, as seen in Fig. 3, maybe connected, as at 29, with the same stitching that engages the upper end of the sleeve lining.

It will be seen in Fig. 4 that the usual interlining or canvas 39, provided in the f-oreparts of the coat, may overlie the under side of the shoulder pad 22 and may be connected, as at 3l,-with the edge 28 of the finish piece 26.

By the construction thus described, the yoke and the forepart lining adjacent the shoulder, as well as the shoulder pad and its finish cover, are all independent of the shoulder of the coat body, that is, of the front and rear parts l2 and I3 so that the seam I4 may be ripped for alteration of the shoulder or for any other neces sary purposes, without in any way disturbing the underlying construction and parts.

Modifications suggest themselves upon consideration of the means herein disclosed but these are believed to be comprised within the spirit and scope of the invention.

What is claimed is:

l. A coat of the skeleton-lined type formed with a front and rear section joined along a shoulder seam lining material attached to the shoulder portion of the coat only at the collar and sleeve head, and a shoulder pad attached to the under side of said lining material and to the The piece 25, alongv shoulder portion of the coat only at the sleeve head.

2. The combination in a skeleton-lined coat, of a single thickness yoke and forepart lining joined at their meeting edges and unattached to the coat shoulder, a shoulder pad positioned beneath the yoke and lining, and a finish piece overlying the under side of the pad beneath the yoke and stitched only to the yoke and to the sleeve head.

3. The combination in a skeleton-lined coat,

' of a single thickness yoke and forepart lining joined at their meeting edges and unattached to the coat shoulder, a shoulder pad positioned beneath the yoke and lining, a finish piece overlying the under side of the pad beneath the yoke and stitching joining an edge of the pad and of said piece to the yoke.

i. A coat comprising a body having a front and a rear section connected by a shoulder seam, sleeves on the body, and a yoke and a forepart lining in the body joined adjacent said shoulder seam and unconnected therewith, said yoke having its upper edge portion only attached to said body, whereby said shoulder seam is rendered accessible beneath the yoke and forepart lining and may be ripped for alteration with out disturbance to or interference with other portions of the coat adjacent thereto.

5. A coat comprising a body having iront and rear section connected by a shoulder seam, sleeves on the body, a yoke and a forepart lining in the body joined adjacent said shoulder seam and unconnected therewith, said yoke having its upper edge portion only attached to said body, and a shoulder pad disposed on the forepa-rt lining and yoke and attached only to the yoke and to the sleeve head, whereby said shoulder seam is rendered accessible beneath the yoke and forepart lining and may be ripp d for alterations without disturbance to or interference with other portions of the coat adjacent thereto.

JEROME GIUSE'FFI. 

